We all know that a tree removal can be a large task. If you call us here at Albany Tree Trimming we can give you a fair price to have it taken down. This brings us to why so many trees need removed in the first place. It is imperative that when the tree first goes into the ground they make sure the ground is ripe for growing. If it is not you may have problems later on and that is where we will have to come in. However we came across this amazing piece called Trees, Shrubs, & Hedges for Home Landscaping authored by Jacqueline Heriteau. I want to discuss part of it.
“In general, acid to neutral soils predominate in areas where the climate is moist–in eastern North America and the Pacific Northwest. Alkaline soils predominate in regions with drier climates. Soils overlying granitic rocks tend to be acid, while those overlying limestone are often alkaline. Locally, soil pH may be quite variable, however, so test your soil before you plant and perhaps again later to assess the effects of soil treatments. You can purchase easy-to-use kits to test soil pH and soil nutrients from garden centers and mail-order suppliers. Laboratory tests may be more accurate; your Cooperative Extension Service, located through telephone information, can provide a list of soil-test labs.
Small changes in soil pH are easier to achieve and maintain than large ones. To raise the pH of acid soil, apply finely ground limestone or dolomitic (magnesium-rich) limestone at the rate recommended on the package. You can mix limestone with soil from the planting hole. Limestone applied to the soil surface annually or semiannually will leach to root level, gradually raising the soil pH there. Proceed slowly and test the soil periodically to measure its progress. An acidic mulch of cottonseed meal, composted sawdust, bark, leaves or pine needles can effect a slow, but long-lasting, reduction in alkalinity. Mulching may be practical for modest changes in pH for large plantings of shrubs, but to be effective, it must cover the extent of the root system. Alkaline soils present a difficult problem for many trees and shrubs, and efforts to maintain a pH significantly lower than that of the native soil usually fail. Instead, select from the pH-adaptable species and cultivars available or those species native to alkaline soils. Again, whether your soil is acid or alkaline, you’re more likely to succeed if you choose the plant to suit the soil.
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Dig a planting hole two to three times wider than the spread of the roots and deep enough so that the crown (where the trunk meets the roots) will be a couple of inches above ground level. The soil in the bottom of the hole must be firm to prevent settling; many plants, especially evergreens, are susceptible to crown rot if the plant settles and water saturates the soil around the crown. Use a spading for to roughen the sides of the hole to assist root penetration. To promote vigorous root growth, some experts suggest you mix a balanced fertilizer and superphosphate into the soil dug from the planting hole. (See”Basics of Fertilization” on page 32)”
What we get from this is exactly what to do to get the pH correct so your tree can thrive and not die. It also tells us how big the hole is. If you would go to the pages you could see way more info related to keeping you tree healthy all its long life. If for some reason your tree don’t make it, please call us so we can come and safely take it down for you. We would be glad to provide a free and friendly quote!